“Don’t play with your food,” mom would scold. At Trois Familia, a brunch spot in L.A., it’s the chef who’s playing with the food, with delightful results.
Trois Familia is the brainchild of renowned L.A. restauranteurs Ludo Lefebvre, Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo. Lefebvre is a classically trained chef, and could easily create a Michelin-starred restaurant. Trois Familia won’t be earning any Michelin stars. Thank goodness for that. Because this strip mall gem is a family friendly, stuffiness-free zone, full of gleefully imaginative, accessible cuisine that puts a smile on your face without putting a hole in your paycheck.
The restaurant is about as unimposing as a dining establishment can be without having golden arches. There is valet parking, but the fee is $1! It’s located in the middle of a strip mall on the wrong end of Sunset Blvd. The restaurant sign is lettered in rainbow sherbet colors, and the patrons sit on white picnic tables. It’s a “communal seating” restaurant, which basically means you share a table with a complete stranger. All the better to see what your neighbor’s ordered without having to strain your neck.
Trois Familia is a Mexican-French restaurant. That’s right. Mexican. French. Those two cuisines seem to have nothing in common, which makes combining them such an inspired idea.
When ordering, expect the unexpected. Churro French Toast looks nothing like a churro, but is sprinkled with cinnamon sugar and topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. It’s as good as it sounds. The hash brown chilaquiles look nothing like chilaquiles; it is, instead, a delightful mound of, spicy, crunchy fried potatoes topped with an egg (see the featured image). Perhaps the most playful dish is the Double Decker Taco, where shredded carrots are designed to look like cheese and brown butter mashed potatoes stand in for beef. It all works.
Bottom line is this: If playing with your food was this fun and tasted this good, even mom would have been down with it.
What’s your favorite “hole-in-the-wall” restaurant?
Thanks for reading!