I must say I’ve never met a biscuit I didn’t like. It’s very hard to bake something out of warm, buttery dough that tastes bad. So, for me, finding the best biscuit is kind of like finding the best rainbow or best sunset. They’re all so marvelous that it’s almost impossible to distinguish between them.
Which makes chef David LeFevre’s creations of flour at Manhattan Beach Post so miraculous. Because, they are, indeed, the Best Biscuits Ever.
Any biscuit lover knows that they come in many delightful variations, from crumbly and firm to soft and flaky. But what LeFevre has done is combine all the pleasures of those varieties into one, harmonious whole. So the outside of the biscuit is a crisp and ever-so-slightly charred crust that yields to a dense chewy middle. There’s also a bit of salty cheese and crisp bacon in every bite. Like most great dishes–and people–these biscuits are a study in wonderful contradictions. They are, at once, crunchy and soft, firm and yielding. And the accompanying maple butter provides a sweet counterpoint to the slight bitterness of the crust.
You’d think from my description that biscuits are the only worthwhile items on the menu. You’d be wrong. LeFevre , who previously captained the renowned Water Grill in downtown Los Angeles, knows what he’s doing in a kitchen. Manhattan Beach Post is an American restaurant that reflects what’s best about America–its diversity. You’ll find Thai pork sausage alongside chimichangas, Moroccan lamb belly next to Korean duck wings. And everything works.
But this mélange of worldliness must take a back seat to the humble biscuit. You’ll find great delights at Manhattan Beach Post, but, as in life, the best things are the simplest. I drive over an hour in L.A traffic for these treats, and I’d gladly double it. Like a Maui sunset, they’re worth the trip.